Can activewear be high-performance, stretchy, and truly non-toxic?

Creating non-toxic, high-performance activewear from natural fibres is one of the biggest challenges in sustainable fashion.

It seems for decades, performance wear has been synonymous with synthetic fibers. Compression leggings and sports bras rely on elastane, better known as Spandex or Latex, for their stretch, recovery, and durability. Without it, the supportive fit and snap back elasticity that athletes and runners depend on would be impossible.

But elastane is a petroleum based product. It does not biodegrade, and it sheds microplastics into the environment. It is often treated with chemicals linked to health concerns. That has made it a flashpoint in the growing debate over how to make clothing that is both high performing and safe for the body and the planet.

Dr. Amanda Carr a textile scientist at North Carolina State University has been quoted saying, "Stretch is the holy grail of textiles, and so far we have only been able to achieve it through plastics. The question now is whether we can reimagine stretch without the environmental and health trade offs.”

Natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, TENCEL, or merino wool offer breathability, comfort, and are gentler on sensitive skin. Unlike synthetics, they allow the body to regulate temperature and reduce irritation. They just feel better. However, they lack the tensile strength to deliver sustained compression. As a result, most garments today rely on blends: 80 to 90 percent natural fiber with 10 to 20 percent elastane. The stretch still comes from plastic.

Even with this stretch added, these blends often only work well for low impact exercise like walking and Pilates, and they struggle to pass the squat test or provide the level of support needed for high impact and endurance activities.

This is where we explore the world of new wave textile innovation, which is seeking to change that.

Promising textile innovation

Bio Based Elastanes to replace Spandex

Fibers like ROICA V550 and Lycra T400 incorporate plant derived content and are designed to degrade more readily in certain conditions.

Mark Liu, a sustainable design researcher at the University of Technology Sydney has commented on these fibres saying that “These are early steps, but they suggest a future where stretch fibers do not outlive the people who wear them."

Engineered Knit Structures

Advances in knitting technology allow fabrics made from TENCEL™ or organic cotton to mimic stretch without heavy use of elastane. A mecinisim that we are reserching throughly.

PFAS Free Finishes

Researchers are developing water repellent coatings made from plant or silicone based formulas, rather than the forever chemicals.

Closed Loop Recycling

Chemical recycling technologies are emerging to break down polyester elastane blends, creating the possibility of circular production, which is a huge win for waste and the environment.

Final thoughts

At Real Dream State, we are partnering with innovators to test bio-based fibres and explore alternative knit structures to design compression wear for high-impact sports that eliminates toxicity as much as possible.

We also recognise that access to safer fabrics remains limited. Certified sustainable, organic, or biodegradable materials often come at a higher cost, restricting them to premium markets.

Dr. Linda Greer, environmental health scientist and former director at the Natural Resources Defense Council, captures this reality perfectly: “This is where policy has to step in. We cannot expect consumers alone to drive this change. Governments and industry need to invest in scaling these alternatives so they are affordable and accessible.”

True systemic change demands a top-down approach, and France’s new law banning PFAS “forever chemicals” in clothing marks a pivotal step forward. By eliminating these harmful compounds by 2026 (and in all textiles by 2030), this legislation sets a strong legal precedent toward safer sportswear and environmental health.